VanMoof S3/X3: Frequently Asked Questions

Getting Error Code 1-60 : What Should I Do Next?

If you are in the UK the best option would be to send e-components of the bike to us for the full diagnostic. There are several option:

Essential
  • Smart Cartridge
  • Main Battery

Extended

  • Smart Cartridge
  • Main Battery
  • eShifter
Extended Plus
  • Smart Cartridge
  • Main Battery
  • eShifter
  • Kick Lock

How to remove e-components of my VanMoof bike?

Please watch the manuals below. If you have any questions please contact us. 

Battery postage. The UK Best Choice: Parcelforce

How to Properly Replace the Main Battery

Before inserting the battery:

  1. Plug in the charger.

  2. Reboot the bike by holding down the power button.

  3. Wait 3 minutes.

  4. Repeat the reboot process two more times.

  5. Unplug the charger.

After inserting the battery:

  • Count to 5, then remove the battery and check if it feels warm or hot.

    • If it feels hot: This may indicate a short circuit inside the frame or between the battery and the Smart Cartridge. Do not reinsert it—the battery will be damaged again. Contact the place where the battery was purchased.

    • If the battery feels normal: You can proceed.

Allow the battery to settle:
Leave the bike powered off for 10–30 minutes before turning it on.

Perform an e-Shifter test:
Switch the bike on and wait 2–3 minutes. Then turn the bike upside down and spin the front wheel up to 3–4 mph—you should hear the e-Shifter switching gears.

Perform a ‘dry run’:
While the bike is still upside down, activate it and rotate the front wheel while pedaling. Be cautious: the motor will activate and support the spin. This helps power all components smoothly and without stress.

How to Check if the Smart Cartridge Battery Is Working.

  1. Plug in the charger and leave it connected for five minutes. It is expected if the charger's LED is flashing green and red.

  2. Reboot the bike by holding down the power button.

  3. Within 20–30 seconds, the charging symbol should appear on the matrix display.

  4. Leave the bike charging for another 5-10 minutes.

  5. Unplug the charger and reboot the bike.

If the bike shows signs of life (e.g., sounds or activity on the matrix display), the battery is working.

If the matrix display remains off or there are no signs of life, the Smart Cartridge battery likely needs replacement.

Main Battery Failure After Periods of Inactivity

Applies to:

VanMoof S3 / X3
Firmware: v1.9.3 and later
Main Battery Firmware: 0117

Issue:

The main battery may appear to fail or stop functioning when the bike is left unused for several weeks.

Background:

Starting with firmware v1.9.3, VanMoof introduced a sleep/hibernate function for the main battery.

  • Pros: Prevents the main battery from discharging over time.

  • Cons: While in hibernation, the Smart Battery can no longer draw charge from the main battery.

The Smart Battery (located in the Smart Cartridge) only charges when the main battery itself is being charged.

  • Main Battery charge time: ~3.5 hours (using the original 4 Amps charger)

  • Smart Battery charge time: ~8–10 hours

Because of this imbalance, the Smart Battery gradually discharges over time. If the bike remains unused, it may eventually reach 0%, leading to system failure symptoms such as:

  • The bike not powering on
  • No response from buttons or lights
  • Inability to charge or communicate with the app

Solutions:

Option 1: Use a Lower-Power Charger

Use a compatible charger that provides a lower output than the original VanMoof charger (2 Amps or 3 Amps chargers).
This extends the charging duration of the main battery, giving the Smart Battery more time to charge fully.

Option 2: Downgrade Main Battery Firmware

Revert to an earlier main battery firmware version that disables the sleep/hibernate function.
This allows the Smart Battery to continue drawing charge from the main battery, even when idle.
Important: In this configuration, fully charge the bike at least once every 4 weeks to prevent complete main battery discharge.

Option 3: Use a Dedicated Smart Battery Charger

Use a Smart Cartridge Battery Charger to charge the Smart Battery directly.
This method keeps the Smart Cartridge operational even if the main battery is in hibernation.

Why Keeping the Smart Battery Charged Is Important:

The Smart Battery powers the Smart Cartridge, which serves as the brain of the bike.
If the Smart Battery voltage drops too low:

  • The Smart Cartridge cannot boot or manage communication with the main battery.
  • The bike may appear completely dead, even if the main battery still contains charge.

Maintaining adequate charge in the Smart Battery ensures that the Smart Cartridge can manage charging, connectivity, and locking functions correctly.

How Does the Smart Cartridge Swap Process Work?

  1. Send Your Smart Cartridge: Ship your current Smart Cartridge to us.

  2. Provide the Ownership Code: Once we receive your Smart Cartridge, you’ll need to provide the ownership code.

  3. Prepare the Swap: We prepare and test the replacement Smart Cartridge.

  4. Receive the New Smart Cartridge: We send you the new Smart Cartridge along with an updated ownership code.

Why Did My Main Battery Stop Working?

Most fuse failures result from external factors:

  1. Very low voltage: Caused by complete discharge. Prevent this by not leaving the bike discharged and using a Wi-Fi smart plug (£10) to control charging.
  2. Very high voltage: Caused by overcharging with the original charger. Do not charge for more than 12 hours.
  3. Damaged wiring loom: Avoid turning the handlebar too far left or right.
  4. Faulty external components: Especially Smart Cartridge issues in 2021–2022 SX3 bikes. Replace if needed.

How to unlock my bike if the main battery doesn't work?

If your back wheel is locked and the main battery doesn't work, your bike's firmware should be 1.9.3 and greater to be able to unlock the wheel.

  1. Insert the charger.
  2. Open the Vanmoof application and unlock the bike.

Error 20 and No Motor Support

Error 20 (and sometimes 19) signals communication/power issues from the battery. Causes may include:

  • Battery malfunction
  • Harness loom fault
  • Smart Cartridge issues

The most common fault is poor connection between the Main Battery and Smart Cartridge—check signal/power cables, connectors, and internal components like MOSFETs and capacitors.

Error 44 and No Gear Shifting

This usually means a faulty eShifter. Fix by replacing the unit.

There are three available options:

  1. Original - eShifter’s internal components are not stress-proofed. If your hub is not in perfect condition, a replacement eShifter may quickly fail again
  2. Original (Improved) - major internal components have been replaced or reinforced to withstand higher stress
  3. Redesigned - fully redesigned. Not as sensitive as the original to the rear hub maintenance.

Less Common Causes:

  • Harness Loom (5% cases): Replace if the connection is the issue.
  • Smart Cartridge (5% cases): Repair (£100–150) or replacement may be needed.

Why eShifters Fail: The Hidden Role of Rear Hub Maintenance

Automatic shifting devices (eShifters) are designed to provide smooth, effortless gear changes — but in many cases, their premature failure is not due to a design flaw. Instead, the root cause is often a poorly serviced or worn rear hub.

When the rear hub does not operate smoothly, even small amounts of resistance can have a big impact. A common example is a slight “catch” when shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear. While this may seem minor, it creates additional load on the eShifter’s internal motor.

Because an eShifter is programmed to cycle through four gears automatically, it cannot compensate for mechanical resistance in the hub. When it encounters a stiff or sticky shift, the motor works harder to overcome the obstruction. This effort causes voltage spikes inside the device, which in turn can burn sensitive SMD (surface-mounted device) components on the eShifter’s circuit board.

In short, a rear hub that is not perfectly serviced can slowly “kill” an eShifter. To prevent failure, it’s essential to:

  • Inspect the hub regularly for wear or damage.

  • Clean, lubricate, and service it to ensure smooth, resistance-free gear changes.

  • Test gear transitions (especially between 2nd and 3rd) before installing or using an eShifter.

Proper hub maintenance not only extends the life of the hub itself but also protects the eShifter from unnecessary stress and costly repairs.

Error 19 Appears Occasionally—What to Do?

Use 4–5mm rubber pads to stabilize the battery. Be gentle with the battery bed cable. The central bottom screw misaligns the battery, damaging the rubber ring and causing connection issues after 1,000–1,500 miles.

Battery Firmware Compatibility

Yes, firmware compatibility matters. Latest versions:

  • Bike firmware: 1.9.3
  • Battery firmware: 0117 (with hibernate mode)

Issues:

  • Bike firmware 1.8.2 + Battery firmware 0117: Error 20 due to wake-up issue.
  • Bike firmware 1.9.3 + Battery firmware 0114: Smart Cartridge battery drains as bike tries to hibernate non-compatible battery.

Match firmware versions:

  • 1.9.3 ↔ 0117
  • 1.8.2 ↔ 0114

Reducing Charger Voltage—A Bad Idea?

Short answer: Yes it is a bad idea, don’t lower voltage—lower amperage instead.

Voltage must remain at 42V. Lowering it tricks the BMS into thinking the battery is deteriorating. This reduces battery lifespan significantly.

Use chargers with 3A, 2A, or 1.7A instead of the original 4A charger to reduce wattage safely.

How to Remove SX3 Handles (Grips)

Use only your hands. Twist and pull—no tools or liquids. The grips are secured with paper tape and silicone.

To reattach: Use T-7000 silicone glue and masking tape.

Which tyres to buy?

Tyre sizes 

28" bikes. VanMoof S2, S3, S5, S6.

Best inner tube: Kenda Schrader Valve (27.5 x 1.95-2.35). Our choice: KT90A / 650B

  • 46-622
    • original size: 28" 1.75
  • 50-622
    • extra wide size: 28" 2.0

24" bikes. VanMoof X2, X3, A5, S6 Open.

Best inner tube: Kenda Schrader Valve (24 x 1.75-2.125)

  • 47-507
    • original size: 24" 1.75

VanMoof’s Two-Speed SX3 AutoHub – Is It Worth It?

Short answer: Depends.

Overview from VanMoof
Sturmey Archer A2K(L) 2-Speed Auto Freewheel Hub

Gear Ratio
• Overall Range - 138%
• Gear 1 - 100% (Direct Drive)
• Gear 2 - 138% (Gear 1 + 38%)

Original hub

Sturmey Archer X-RF4 4 Speed Rotary Freewheel Rear Hub - 36 Hole
Gear Ratio
• Overall Range - 210%
• Gear 1 - 100% (Direct Drive)
• Gear 2 - 128% (Gear 1 + 28%)
• Gear 3 - 164% (Gear 2 + 28%)
• Gear 4 - 210% (Gear 3 + 28%)

When comparing the overall range between the two hubs, the difference is quite significant. What does this mean in practice? The 2-speed hub feels very similar to the original hub when it's "stuck" between Gear 2 and Gear 3.

If you're using US mode, the 2-speed hub may not be the right fit. Why? Once you go beyond 15 mph, the 2-speed hub becomes uncomfortable and inefficient. Additionally, if you're not using the Boost function, it's harder to accelerate smoothly due to the limited gear options.

Switching the original hub to a fixed Gear 3 and combining it with Boost provides a noticeably better riding experience compared to the 2-speed hub solution from VanMoof.

Error 44 removal / e-Shifter Spoofer is available for separate purchase here.

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